Fashion is considered to last for a very short time. It is changed with the seasons, affected by international runways, and recreated through contemporary technology. However, certain clothes resist time, always retaining their significance even when fashion trends have changed.
In Mongolia, the enduring symbol is the deel. This clothing has long protected nomads against cold winds. They are marked important events in life, such as weddings and festivals, and represent family history with color, shape, and pattern.
Today, it exists not only in the countryside but also in hectic urban life, even gaining a novel form in modern fashion. The deel represents strength, identity, cultural pride, whether worn every day by herders or proudly displayed during the Naadam Festival or re-invented on international runways.
With that said, in this article, you will explore the reasons why this all-time fashion piece has remained the most potent fashion statement in Mongolia.
1. A Steppe-born Garment
The Mongolian deel dates back to the days of the great steppe empires, when nomads wandered across expanses of grasslands in adverse climatic conditions. For this reason, its design is not random; it is a necessitated product.
Conventionally, the deel is crafted of thick wool, silk, or cotton. So, it was designed to be worn in winters when temperatures were extremely cold, to be used in horseback riding. It also resisted heavy wind and dust.
Speaking of which, the front panel-overlapping deel parts are tied with a sash, protecting the body against cold breezes, and enabling free movement. Therefore, it was an easy and convenient outfit for herding or riding.
2. Identity and Heritage Symbol
In addition to functionality, the deel has immense cultural meaning. It is a tangible representation of identity in a very nomadic nation. In other words, a deel is not only a fashionable item but a way to connect with ancestors and protect the Mongolian traditions.
They tend to be customized to appeal to regional differences. For example, Khalkha deels have simpler designs, whereas Buryat and Kazakh deels present more detailed decorations. The pattern and colors of a deel may also be symbolic.
Darker colors are often worn in everyday life, whereas lighter colors are adorned during festivals and weddings. Each garment is unique, with the embroidery, trims, and embellishments differing according to tribe or family.
This way, the deel is in a sense a cultural language: it speaks the language of lineage, status, and belonging. As a result, when Mongolians who live abroad dress up in a deel during national holidays, like Naadam, it becomes a cultural pride activity. Hence, it binds them more closely to home.
3. The Deel in Daily Life and Festivals
Although nowadays in Mongolia modern outfits are common, the deel still holds a major role in major cultural events. Deels are predominant at the Naadam Festival, held annually in the month of July, which celebrates horse racing, wrestling, and archery.
Dressed in colorful clothes, families turn the event into a walking fashion show that follows tradition. Deels are also worn during weddings and the lunar new year (Tsagaan Sar) celebrations in gorgeous silks and fancy patterns.
They can be unique creations and even handed down as heirlooms, providing a record of family history. Moreover, in rural Mongolia, some herders continue to wear deels every day, preferring their durability and comfort to Western-style coats or jackets.
This continued presence of the deel in both ceremonial and practical settings illustrates its versatility, ensuring it remains relevant across generations.
4. An Artistic Canvas
On that note, the traditional deels are usually decorated with trim fabric and lining of contrasting silk or brocade, and some may also be trimmed with symbolism such as the eternal knot. It represents harmony and balance.
Mongolian tailors, too, play with material to make it more beautiful and functional. For instance, lighter silk or cotton may be used in summer deels, and felted wool or sheepskin in winter.
This versatility confirms that the deel can be used as a functional object, but also as an artistic expression.
5. Contemporary Interpretations
Despite being closely connected with the past, the Mongolian deel has kept up with the times. Speaking of which, contemporary designers cut it shorter, shape it to the figure, and design it using lighter material.
So, it can be combined with jeans, boots, or sneakers with ease. In Ulaanbaatar and beyond, modernized deels are also seen on the runways in vivid colors, sleek lines, and minimalist designs, mixing tradition with fashion.
The Mongolian deel remains a fashion icon due to its cultural importance, practicality, and enduring style.
